1 Early Costume and Fashion Plates
1. What is the difference between a costume plate and a fashion plate?
Costume plates show costume as it was worn in the past, especially everyday
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Past fashions. Fashion plates promote and publicize possible future fashions.
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Costume plates are about the fashions of the past and fashion plates are about
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Fashion ideas now or the near future. Costume plates almost always include
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National, theatrical, court and royal dress.
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2. When did they reach their peak?
Fashion plates really reached their peak in the 19th century when they were
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Hand coloured engravings. Early costume plates are often black and white
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Engravings and were almost always of men not women.
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3. When were the first fashion plates produced?
Albrecht Dürer made the first costume plates in 1494 when he made a record of
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clothing styles typical of national and regional dress of Nuremburg and Vienna
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These were the first costume engravings of dress already worn in the past.
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4. In 1778 Jacques Esnauts and Michel Rapilly of Paris joined forces and began to issue their La Gallerie des Modes publication of coloured fashion plates. How many did they produce?
In 1778 Jacques Esnauts and Michel Rapilly of Paris joined forces and began to
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Issue their La Gallerie des Modes publication of coloured fashion plates.
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Between 1778 and 1787 they in total, issued some 342 figure plates and some 72
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Hat plates, all published at spasmodic intervals.
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5. Who create the Gallery of Fashion? And what did it contain?
The next lot of famous costume plates were after 1794 by Nicolaus Wilhelm von Heideloff.
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Heideloff issued this monthly Gallery of Fashion and each issue contained 2 lovingly hand coloured
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Aquatints finished with gold, silver or other Metallic paints. Heideloff issued in total 217 Georgian
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Fashion plates between 1794 and 1803 showing 362 different figures.
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2. La Belle Assemblée and Ackermann's
1. In what magazine and when did fashion plates start?
Fashion plates as hand coloured engravings really began in England with the
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publication of an English monthly magazine called The Lady's Magazine in
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1770. The publishers did not tint the plates in each Lady’s Magazine issue in the
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early days, but dressmakers did this themselves so by about 1790 they were sold
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Touched with colour.
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2. What other magazines contained fashion plates?
A range of other magazines with fashion plates from England, France and
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Germany all ran in this era and included the following; Cabinet des Modes
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1785-89 and Journal de la Mode et du Goût 1790-93.
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3. Name 3 other influential fashion magazines that competed with each other?
La Belle Assemblée
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The Lady's Monthly Museum
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Le Beau Monde
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4. How long did the La Belle Assemblée run?
63 years
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5. What was the full name of the full name of La Belle Assemblée?
Bell's Court and Fashionable Magazine Addressed Particularly to the
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Ladies
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6. The Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures, Fashions and Politics was created by Ackermann. What design elements did it contain and why was it significant?
The fashion plates were included as a guide for ladies and dressmakers. It also
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contained other images of other design elements such as pictures of furniture and
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Art pieces that might interest refined ladies in their home making. It paid special
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Attention to classical styles and taste in relation to art. Each monthly magazine
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Had two or more fashion plates of a lone figure or a model plus child. In total
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Ackermann released around 450 fashion plates and the magazine ceased to exist
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In 1829 with the prettiest plates thought to be between 1826 and 1829.
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3. Le Follet Courier des Salons
1. When did Le Follet Courier des Salons first appear?
One of the longest lived fashion plate magazines Le Follet Courier des Salons first appeared in
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1829. This French magazine was exceptionally stylish and although early plates were Not signed,
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many collectors are now familiar with the signatures of later years.
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2. Which magazine was Le Follet equivalent to today?
Le Follet was a magazine equivalent to our Vogue of today and flourished to
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The turn of the century. It still hand coloured plates when other magazines had
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Moved onto much cruder litho printing.
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3. When was La Mode founded?
La Mode was founded in 1829 by Henri de Girardin.
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4. When did La Bon Ton appear?
Le Bon Ton appeared in 1834.
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4. Godey's Lady's Book
1. Name 3 English magazines and explain why they couldn’t compete with their French counterparts?
London publishers often copied engraved plates and much was lost in the
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Copying. Although the two most important English magazines of the mid C19th
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were the Ladies Cabinet and The Ladies' Gazette of Fashions, these English plates
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are poorly drawn and tinted. Fashion plates from these 2 latter publications are
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not thought to add to a collection. The English magazine the Lady's Magazine,
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knew when it could not match the artistry and simply began importing fashion
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plates from Le Follet. Much the same happened in America. Later by the 1850s
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engraved French plates were actually imported to America for Godey's magazine
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having previously been published in Paris up to eleven months earlier
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2. Name 2 American magazines of this period?
Godey's Lady's Book and
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Graham's Magazine.
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3. What was the most famous American 19th C magazine, and up until what date did it publish to?
The most famous of mid C19th American magazines of this time frame, included
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Godey's Ladies' Handbook published from July 1830 without break until 1898.
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4. What articles did it include?
6. The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine
1. Name two of the most important Victorian British Magazines?
Samuel Beeton founded two of the most important British fashion magazines of the C19th. These
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Victorian magazines were Mrs Beeton's The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine and the Queen.
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7. The Queen Fashion Magazine 1890s -1908
1. What was the longest running English magazine?
One of the longest running English female magazines was The Queen magazine that began in 1861.
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2. When did it run until and who bought it out?
It ran Until the 1960s, and got bought out by Harpers Bazaar
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3. What was it called?
After the sale Harpers took over running it as a combined magazine re-launch with the new name Harpers & Queen.
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4. When was the ‘Queen’ dropped?
From March 2006, Harpers & Queen was be called Harpers Bazaar.
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5. What is it now called? Why? What was used to promote the name change?
In September 2007 to celebrate the new look Harper's BAZAAR, 50,000 London
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newsstand copies of bazaar were each studded with 200 Swarovski crystals on
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the updated new title. The move to the new logo was to bring Harper's BAZAAR
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in line with sister titles globally.
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On December 17, 1892, the first issue of Vogue was published
Butterick published a magazine called The Delineator.
The Delineator featured the Butterick sewing patterns and provided an in-depth look at the fashion of the day. Butterick also produced quarterly catalogs of fashion patterns in the 1920s and early 1930s
When was Cosmopolitan first published?
It was first published in 1886 in the United States
When was Vanity Fair first published?
The first issue was published in February 1983
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